In Moldova there is an opportunity to celebrate both Christmas and the New Year twice. Christmas Day is December 25 for most Americans and Europeans who observe the holiday. The Romanian Orthodox and other Christians who are few in number in Moldova celebrate Christmas that day. However, most Moldovans are Russian Orthodox and the country celebrates Christmas on January 7.
As a consequence I like many PCVs traveled over our traditional Christmas holiday. For me it was a wonderful trip to northern California courtesy of my brother and sister-in-law so we could celebrate together as a family. Our annual get together at Christmas has its own traditions which include wonderful meals, great wine, delicious cookies, Christmas caroling and of course just relaxing and spending time together laughing and sharing. Being with my family especially my nephews was and always is very special.
I returned to Moldova in time to spend New Year's Eve December 31, 2015, and New Year's Day January 1, 2016 with my host family. The New Year or "Anoul Nou" is an important holiday in Moldova. On New Year's Eve about 20 relatives of my host family gathered at the home of one family member for a large masa or meal. The table was filled with fish, meat, vegetables, salads, crepes, bread, and fruit. Homemade wine and fruit juice were freely flowing. It was as I learned the first of many veritable Moldovan feasts.
Before the year 2015 ended, the house was visited by groups of carolers which is a Moldovan tradition. Carolers wander about the village on New Year's eve, day and the day after. They also entertain on Russian Orthodox Christmas eve, day, and the day after. Despite the cold, young people enjoy this tradition because they are rewarded with money by the residents for whom they sing, dance and recite poetry.
Before the year 2015 ended, the house was visited by groups of carolers which is a Moldovan tradition. Carolers wander about the village on New Year's eve, day and the day after. They also entertain on Russian Orthodox Christmas eve, day, and the day after. Despite the cold, young people enjoy this tradition because they are rewarded with money by the residents for whom they sing, dance and recite poetry.
Just before midnight champagne was opened and poured and after we toasted in the New Year, we bundled up and went outside for fireworks and sparklers. We closed the evening with a delicious torte and hot tea. I think I finally crawled into bed after 2:00 a.m.
On New Year's Day, we went to another family member's house for an equally large masa in the late afternoon. About 15 relatives enjoyed a sumptuous feast highlighted with roast turkey.
The Sunday after New Year's Day, January 3, my host couple and I traveled to Chisinau for a different, but very delicious masa at the home of another family member. Inasmuch as there were only 7 of us, the meal was not as massive, but there still were three kinds of meat and three kinds of fish with all the trimmings, wine and multiple desserts. By the time we arrived home at the close of the New Year's weekend, I was ready for a food break. However, Christmas was yet to come . . .
Beginning Monday morning January 4, my host lady went into production for the Christmas masa which was to be held at our house. By Christmas eve, the house wafted with the smells of fresh baked bread, vanilla crepes, roasted meats, and more prepared with care and love. Groups of young carolers came to the house singing traditional songs and even dancing for us!
On January 7, we awoke to a white Christmas as snow gently blanketed the village. Late Christmas morning the family came together around an extended table at our house which was covered with dishes and platters of food leaving no available space. Eighteen of us celebrated Christmas Moldovan style with all homemade food and heartfelt toasts of brandy and American Jack Daniels, a gift to my host.
Christmas in Moldova is actually a two day celebration. So on Friday January 8, we walked down the road in the snow to another family member's house for a huge masa complete with the traditional mămăligă (a warm yellow cornmeal cake) and roast pork. This feast began with brandy, followed by house wine, and concluded with hot tea and a very tasty homemade fruit torte. I was glad we were walking home but the walk was not long enough after the two hour meal! It was a spirited walk as we laughed while the children engaged in making and throwing snowballs with much gusto.
After two days of Christmas celebrations, I thought we had concluded the holidays. Wrong. As followers of the Old Russian calendar, the feast of Saint Vasile (St. Basil the Great) and Old New Year was January 14. On the eve of the feast and Old New Year's eve January 13, a massive masa was held at a family member's house. When this couple was married, they had chosen St. Vasile as the patron of their marriage, family and home. So because they do things in a big way, 27 relatives and close friends were treated to an incredible feast. The celebration actually continued the following day for other friends and neighbors. All I can say is I lost count of the dishes put before us.
On Old New Year's Day January 14, I was literally showered at the Primaria and at home with corn kernels and seeds by children and adults. This is another tradition promoting planting and a good harvest. The person throwing the seeds in turn is rewarded with candy. We had a number of groups of children come to the door of our house that day in hopes of a candy reward which they did receive.
Now surely the celebrations were over. Wrong again. On Friday January 15, one of the people who is on the Mayor's staff and is named "Vasile" invited the entire Primaria staff to lunch at his home. The family laid before us a table filled to the brim with meat, fish, salads, vegetables and fruit. The meal was topped off with crepes and a torte. So much for my productive Friday afternoon.
It is my understanding that the winter holidays are now concluded. The rhythm and normal cycle of life in the village in winter has returned. There is plenty of cold, ice and snow. There are also memories of delightful gatherings with people I have come to really enjoy and like, and who have welcomed me into their family.
If you like holidays, festive celebrations and meals that never seem to end come to Moldova!!
