Sunday, May 21, 2017

Vin de casa - October 2016

Central and southern Moldova is wine country.  Located in the Black Sea basin with fertile soil, low slopping hills, sunny plateaus, and moist warm climatic conditions suitable for grape growing, Moldova has a long history and tradition of winemaking.

Moldova's wine industry is comprised of several large wineries and many small ones  Most of the commercially produced wine is exported with Russia having been the largest buyer of Moldovan wine until July 2014 when Moldova signed an association agreement with the European Union (EU). In response Russian President Vladimir Putin placed an import ban on Moldovan fruits, vegetables and wine.  The result has been an added economic hardship for Moldova, Europe's poorest country. A shift in exports has since occurred with the European Union becoming a major importer of Moldovan wine including the Czech Republic, Poland, Romania, Slovak Republic, Germany and Great Britain. Other countries importing Moldovan wine include China, Japan and the United States.

Domestically Moldovans prefer and pride themselves on 'vin de casa' or homemade wine. Wine that is commercially produced is available in stores and restaurants and consumed in homes in Chișinău and other cities.  In the villages, bottled commercial wine can be purchased, but mostly homemade wine is consumed and gifted in plastic bottles to neighbors and guests. (Plastic bottles from the purchase of water and soda are saved and filled with homemade wine to give or take to others.)

In the villages almost if not every house makes wine.  Grapes are grown in the garden or yard surrounding the house and on plots of land in the plateaus or hills surrounding the residential area of the village.  In Spring the soil and vines are tended with people working many hours on days taken off from work, after work or on Saturdays.  Hopefully following a good growing season with lots of sun and enough rain, the grapes are harvested in September.

Toamna or Autumn is extremely busy in the villages with villagers again working long hours away from and in addition to their normal routine and work. The fruits and vegetables from the gardens and surrounding fields are harvested and conserved for home use during the long winter months. And of great importance is the harvesting of the grapes and production of wine. Each house has its own method of making wine and the type of wine: red and/or white; and dry, semi-sweet and/or sweet. And many also produce rachiu or brandy from fruits for holidays and special occasions.

My host family grows grapes on vines in the yard and also in the hills of the village. In September they hand pick the grapes, ferment them in wooden barrels in the yard and then extract the juice with a hand operated crusher. The work is labor intensive and the entire process takes several weeks with the wine finally being produced in October.  The wine is stored in large steel drums in the cool cellar.

Both red and white wine are made by my host family.  They add no chemicals and/or sugars so that the wine is completely natural.  Without the addition of sulfites it is usually consumed within the year. Wine made in October is generally not consumed until after the New Year and Orthodox Christmas on January 7.

Winemaking is part of the village way of life and a living tradition.  Moldova produces very good wine both commercially and at the hands of its people who pass along their homemaking processes and recipes from generation to generation.  Any visit to Moldova is not complete without a glass of vin de casa.  Noroc!!  (Cheers)



















Sunday, May 7, 2017

Sixty Days . . .

It is a bright, sunny and warm late Spring day here in Moldova.  The roosters started crowing well before 5:00 a.m., but I was tired enough to tune them out and continue sleeping.  My hosts, however, started planting cucumbers in the garden sometime after 6:00 a.m. in anticipation of rain this afternoon.  The garden has become a focus of their energy as it is a major source of their food.

As I thought about my plans for this Sunday, I realized that today marks 60 days until my proposed COS (Close of Service) date.  I am confronted with a mix of conflicting emotions finding myself anxious, excited, nostalgic and a whole range in between.  I am oh so looking forward to returning home as I have truly missed family and friends . . .  and my Tigger.

I would not be completely honest though if I did not admit to being a bit anxious about my return. Everybody's life has continued these past two years according to each one's unique choices, path and situation. I expect that some, if not many, of us may be in a different space based upon our challenges, decisions and experiences. I know that I have lived a much different life, one that I could and did not expect, but one to which I have tried to be open and to embrace though not without being tried at times. There have been difficult days when my very beliefs, patience and resolve have been tested, but there have also been days of real joy, satisfaction and smiles. All of our varied experiences when shared with each other can enhance and enrich our own perspectives.  Upon my return I hope to do just that continuing to learn from and respect each person I encounter.

At the same time, I will miss the people who have graciously welcomed me a stranger into their country, homes and lives.  I have a family here who have been kind and thoughtful beyond measure accepting and including me in their celebrations and traditions.  At times I have been overwhelmed by their consideration and generosity. Similarly, I will miss the people with whom I work and the children to whom I have hopefully introduced and taught a little of the English language and American culture.  I am grateful to all the Moldovans whom I have encountered, most especially my family, associates and students, who have endured, but also helped me with my broken Romanian!

And for me personally I would be terribly remiss if I did not acknowledge my colleagues.  We first came together as a group of Peace Corps trainees in New Jersey on May 30, 2015 and arrived in Moldova on June 3, 2015.   After a couple months of long days of language, cultural and job training, we officially became Peace Corps volunteers. As a group we represent the diversity of America and have spent the past two years doing our best to work with the people of Moldova in friendship and peace. Throughout we have been there for each other and I could not think of a better support network.  I may be biased, but each one is an adventurous, amazing, persevering and talented individual with whom I have had the good fortune of sharing this part of my journey.

Yet I do not want to get ahead of myself.  I have a couple of months to go and work to do.  I pray that I am able to continue fulfilling my commitment here by just taking one day at a time.  

For now, during the next few weeks, energy and time permitting, I will try to get back to this blog and share some of the events and experiences of the past year.  It has been almost six months since I last wrote and much has happened.  I am not talking about great or major events, but the simple things of every day life.  Hopefully I can convey a little of the life I have known here in Moldova.

Moldova M30 Peace Corps Trainees  -  New Jersey  -  June 1, 2015


 M30 Peace Corps Trainees at COD Final Training Project  -  July 18, 2015

Cultural Exchange  -  M30 Peace Corps COD Trainees' Final Project  -  Mileștii Mici  -  July 18, 2015

 Officially Peace Corps Volunteers following Swearing-In  -  M30 CODs  -  July 29, 2015

 M30 PCVs at COS Conference (last training)  -  April 28, 2017